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At least in name, Franc's is one of the longest serving restaurants in Chester, with two decades of service already clocked up. Apart from a few Asian outlets, only the Grosvenor Hotel's restaurants and a couple of Italian old timers can match it for longevity. In its charming if unexceptional way, Franc's has made a niche for itself in the psyche of Chester dining.
But after the founding Franc hung up his apron and returned to France, his restaurant slipped: a staleness and - worse than that - reports of rudeness and arrogance on the part of the waiting staff, became familiar. Major change was imperative and, in a do or die mission, the local What's Cooking Group took it over in 2007. The result of their endeavours is a revitalised establishment - not a great one, but at least one that deserves a return to the kind of affection that Chester diners used to hold for it.
Most obviously, the main, ground floor dining room (there are tables on two higher floors as well) has a fresh exposed-beam minimalist look. Walls are white with ecclesiastical mirrors. A bright blue plush banquette runs the length of the room.
The menu is timelessly familiar. Onion soup, boudin noir, baked camembert; Toulouse sausages, Coquilles St Jacques, coq au vin; creme brulee and tarte tatin. Wines are well chosen, beers are not. There are special offers for every occasion, but even peak time a la carte is pleasingly inexpensive.
My recent visit was in a party of thirty. Ninety dishes served without a single problem - not a word of complaint or a course sent back. That, as they say, is not nothing. Only the curious phenomenon of the three bean cassoulet raised an eyebrow. Already remarked on in our Forum, I was able to see at first hand this almost legumeless anomaly. But - in the context of the menu as a whole - it was an anomaly and all the other dishes were presented without any surprises. My ribeye steak was fine, served medium as requested, with thin chips and roasted mushrooms. A charcuterie starter was very well furnished with pickles and salad; its salami OK for a country not known for its salami and its ham quite good. Cheeses were brie, camembert and chevre: all good and the camembert especially right. Bread was baked freshly - perhaps a little too freshly.
Service was crisp and efficient under the pressure of our 30-strong horde. The toilets, though much improved compared with their condition before the refurbishment are still below par. The opportunity to fix this properly has been missed. Otherwise, the layout makes the most of the confined space.
Franc's is now a safe option. Honest, straightforward French staples. No flash, nothing too technical, what you get is what you expect (except for the cassoulet). With its low end prices and special offers, we hope Franc's will be around for a few more years to come.
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